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Patternmaking for Menswear: Classic to Contemporary
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This comprehensive men's patternmaking text covers many different garment types and design elements, including patternmaking techniques for both woven and knit fabrics. The step-by-step format with accompanying detailed illustrations is appropriate for beginning to advanced students, as well as the industry professionals looking to sharpen their patternmaking skill. Photographs provide examples of completed garments on the dress form and clear illustrations are highlighted with color to show precisely what to do at each step of the patternmaking process. Noting the subtle difference between patternmaking for men versus women, the authors provide readers with a complete understanding of the male anatomy, how to take measurements and fitting techniques. Patternmaking for Menswear has a unique modular organization, moving from basic sloper development to detailing slim-fit versus classic-fit garments with design details grouped together to allow readers to combine them to create unlimited design variations. The text includes a section on fit problems and solutions that can be referenced after making a muslin for better fit. Instructions on how to add proper seam allowances to woven and knit patterns are also included.With many fashion-forward and on-trend patterns, this book is an indispensible resource for creating modern and professional menswear designs.
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Product details
Spiral-bound: 488 pages
Publisher: Fairchild Books; Spi edition (April 16, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 160901944X
ISBN-13: 978-1609019440
Product Dimensions:
9.7 x 1.4 x 11.8 inches
Shipping Weight: 3.4 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.7 out of 5 stars
26 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#314,858 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
Ok folks, so I waited a while before I wrote this review because I wanted to actually draft something first. Well.....I drafted the sloper for the shirt and the pants and I must say, it is very accurate The slopers fit perfectly on the first try. Once you take care in measuring your figure, and you get your perfect sloper/block to fit, all the other exercises in the book are easy. With that said, I contemplated whether or not to give this book 4 stars instead of 5 but because of the accurate draft, this book well deserves the 5 star I have given it. It is not easy to find good Patternmaking books, especially for men where the draft is so spot on .Pros .. That made this book a 5 star -- it is VERY accurate, Diagrams are clear and concise. It is an easy read as the pages are well laid out with nice explanations for the differences between a woman and a man where Patternmaking is concern. This was much appreciated. A beginner can have great success with careful attention to details.Cons--- WISHED that as a seamstress/tailor who wants to teach with this book that people like us would have been more appreciated by the author and made the Ancillary resources available to us and not just for big colleges. We paid for the book just like anyone else. With access to the instructors guide including the course syllabi would have been appreciated .As for those like myself who like things in the metric, ALL you have to do is take your measurement using the metric system, and divide by the number they have given you. Example let's say on page 23 in the book It said D-A ( chest circumference /2)+2" . YOUR chest circumference is 96cm. Well divide 96 cm by 2 = 48cm now add 2"which is ( 5.1cm) to it.Hope this review helps someone in their purchase of this book. As for me, reading reviews always help make my decision somewhat easier.Here are a couple of pics. of the very first draft using this book. This is the classic fit.
It's very sad that menswear is somehow put aside in the editorial market and is often treated as a second-class type of patternmaking. Most of the books available on the subject are unaccurate or old fashioned. However, those who like men's clothing know pretty well how tricky it can be, since it is hugily based on detailing, finishing and fit (specific for men's body). It's nearly impossible to apply flat patternmaking techniques from women's to men's and get the best results. As it's eaqually uneffective to cope men's patterns through a womenswear's drafting process.But this book is a very handy source of information (from novice to advanced patternmakers). Its content covers a very nice range of in-depth methods and drafts which are perfect if you want to actually understand ratios and proportions while drafting. I made myself some slopers and they are, hands down, the best you can get - (and I promise you I tested many other authors). Just about everything in this book is reasonable and impressively accurate also for custom made clothes. The text is easy to follow and right to the point. The author also took care of letting patternmakers to know their job: they often present more than one possibility of ratios and fit variations which may depend on the body type you are drafting for. (I mean, we all know that any kind of attempt to overly standardize the patternmaking process will certainly fail since there are many body types and each of them needs different draft proportioning)All in all, it was a very nice purchase! Pure gold archive.Among the few reasons I do not give it five stars: the spiral-bound quality is very poor! The book is fragile and will esily demage with frequent manipulation (which is really concerning when it come to a textbook!). If you buy it, you will need to get it a nice casing. The other reasons are that its content lacks a more wide perspective on shorts (the author only presents one knit shorts), and the diagrams could be more nicely laid out (as some drawing lines overlap instruction words, etc). I also think that some sewing guidelines for construction and assembling of the design parts would enhance the level of this title. But, off course, none of those flaws will spoil the knowledge you'll get from this book!
Very well set out text book. The text is well written and illustrations are concise. Only comment would be that unless you knew what to look for in the fitting photos, you would be hard pushed to observe the errors on the garments. They're too subtle and need a bit more exaduration. I've been patternmaking for many years and even without drafting any of these blocks or slopers, I can tell that they will be more than adequate for a great staring point. Nice to see something of such quality addressing menswear pattern making. It's like we don't exist sometimes within the fashion industry!
This is a very thorough book. It explains how to take measurements, seam allowances, and drafting different patterns based on classic and slim fit. It shows you how to draft every single pattern to a garment, and how to mark the patterns. The last page of each draft shows all of the pieces needed to construct whatever your making. The drafting part confused me a little, especially when it came to draft the shoulder slope. Overall this book is amazing.
one of the best menswear design books i owned! helped me with a lot if design knowledge while i was in school!
I'm a beginner when it comes to all things sewing, but this book is clear and concise. I also generally have a hard time with learning via textbooks but I found this book to be comprehensive and user friendly.
This book is quite a neat book regarding men's wear patternmaking. I bought this book for men's wear design for myself. The most valuable aspects of the book are the principles. I have had a difficult time developing a pattern applying the women's wear principles, this book resolved that problem..This book shows graduated methods for men's wear making it a useful resource.
I like the way the instructions are set out on this book. It has helped me in my menswear construction/patternmaking classes a lot more than the other book that was required for my class.
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